My Luxembourg City – Part I

My Luxembourg City – Part I

with 33 Comments

 

7:30 am. The train from Mersch was slithering along the rails. Soon we would enter Luxembourg City’s railway station. But the rattling wheels lurched to a halt on the Biisserbréck (Biisser brigde). The sun was rising. From my window seat, I could spot the three towers of the Notre-Dame Cathedral on the far left, and the Méchelskierch on the right, still draped in morning mist. A view perfectly framed by the window… close to “window-art”, something that would inspire artist Chris Duke in San Francisco. But that’s another story. Let’s get back to Luxembourg City for now. My Luxembourg City…

 

I was born and grew up in the capital of Luxembourg. But for nearly 20 years, it never occurred to me that I was really living in a capital. Compared to Paris or Los Angeles – places I was quite familiar with as a kid – Luxembourg City was tiny, monotonous, and boring. My greatest wish was to run away as soon as I graduated from high school. Which I did.

 

10 years, several metropolises, and thousands of adventures later, we came back “home”. But can we really call it “home”? Luxembourg has changed profoundly within a decade.

 

 

The most striking changes affect Luxembourg’s architecture and urban landscape. The Grand-Duchy might be a bit slow with public road works. But when it comes to construction, it’s as quick as lightning. At times, the whole capital – not to say the whole country – feels like a huge construction site. Old buildings are torn down within a day, and new modern boxes keep popping up like mushrooms. How many times have I got lost in my “hometown” since we’re back?

 

But despite all the changes, several places in Luxembourg City still bring back (bitter) sweet childhood memories. Some of these places have become touristy, while others are still (somewhat) hidden gems to the “new” residents. Each of the spots in this post has marked me in a way or another. And while they might not be the most famous landmarks in Luxembourg City, I think it’s totally worth to pay them a visit.

 

The Aldringen and the Hôtel des Postes – aka the future Royal Hamilius

 

The Aldringen, or better known as the “Place Hamilius”, right in front of the Main Post Office in Luxembourg City’s Upper Town, is certainly not a hidden gem, but not a tourist spot either. A huge construction site since 2015, this place used to be a central bus station, with an underground parking and a couple of shops in the underground passage.

 

Among the shops underneath the Place Hamilius, was an Asian grocery store. As a kid, I sometimes tagged along when my mother delivered her daily homemade Vietnamese nems to the store. And whenever she chatted with the owner for too long, I would resurface on street level and enter one of the “black” buildings located at the crowded square, which used to house a municipal library. Half of the books I read as a kid came from that book heaven.

 

 

The Aldringen could definitely not be considered as a “charming” place back in the 1980s and 90s. High school students and young skaters used to hang out around the bus stations and on the stairways connecting the several platforms to the underground passage. There were graffiti, colorful chewing gums, cigarette butts, honking cars on the busy Boulevard Royal, and people arguing or yelling. But then, the Place Hamilius was a meeting point. The meeting point. A landmark even. When you had a date as a teenager, chances were that you’d meet your lover “Um Aldréngen”.

 

Inside the giant crevice that we see now, they’re building a new underground car park. And above it, an ultramodern complex with a large shopping mall, hype restaurants and cafés, luxurious apartments, and even a “sky garden” with a roof terrace.

 

I have no doubt that it will (still) be a thriving place. But as long as the upcoming “Royal Hamilius” complex is not built, we still have a fantastic view of the early 1900’s building of the Post Office. I have walked past and been inside this building many times before, but never really paid attention to its magnificence.

 

The other day, I was standing across the street, waiting for the light to turn green, musing about the one and only building still standing in the midst of the Hamilius construction site (because the owners refused to sell…). And my eyes suddenly rested on the postal office. It then occurred to me how beautiful the Hôtel des Postes really is. For the very first time, I was looking closely at this grand neo-Renaissance facade! I know, shame on me!

 

The Knuedler or Place Guillaume II – aka that plaza next to the Grand Ducal Palace

 

The “Knuedler” is a way more famous square compared to the Place Hamilius. It’s flanked by the Luxembourg City Tourist Office on the west side, and the Grand Ducal Palace on its east, down the rue de la Reine. Since 1991, thousands of people gather on this square once a year to attend the free summer open air music festival “Rock um Knuedler”. But the popularity of this place goes back to the Middle Ages.

 

In the 13th century, the site sheltered a Franciscan monastery. Since the Franciscan friars wore a belt tied in a knot, in Luxembourgish “Knued”, this place is commonly called “Knuedler”. During the French Revolutions however, when Luxembourg was under Prussian occupation, French soldiers invaded the capital and seized the monastery. Bit by bit, the medieval structure was dismantled and the materials of the monastery were finally used to build a new City Hall, completed in 1838.

 

A decade later, the equestrian statue of the Grand Duke William II of the House of Nassau-Orange (in French Guillaume II d’Orange-Nassau) was set up in the center of the Knuedler. Obviously, the square was soon named after the reigning Grand Duke. And it was actually on the steps of this very statue where Kerstin and I used to hang around when we first met. Not the most romantic spot indeed. But we always had a good laugh when looking up, to stare right at the horse’s buttocks. And from this privileged seat, we also enjoyed a stunning view of the City Hall.

 

I’ve always liked this spotless neo-classical facade, designed by architect Julien Rémont from Liège. For as long as I can remember, a market is held twice a week on the Knuedler square. As a kid, instead of gaping at juicy fruits and vegetables, I always wanted to mount one of the bronze lions that are still guarding both sides of the large steps leading up to the City Hall.

 

A huge chunk of the Knuedler is currently another construction site. Luxembourg City is building a new underground parking, which makes it impossible to sit at the foot of the equestrian statue. But when the construction works are finally over, I’ll probably head out on the “Knuedler on Ice” skating rink, which is one of Luxembourg City’s highlights during the Christmas market event.

 

The Holy Ghost Plateau – aka where you get the best view of the Lower Luxembourg City

 

Not far away from the Knuedler spreads the Plateau du Saint Esprit, or the Holy Ghost Plateau. In the 1990s, this square served mainly as a residential area. Since one of my sisters lived nearby, I spent a lot of time on this plateau, sometimes for hours to admire the panorama view of the old town way below in the valley, commonly called the Grund.

 

 

Back then, I didn’t know that another religious community also thrived on this square in the Middle Ages. In fact, the Holy Ghost Monastery, built in 1234, was seized and occupied by the French just like the Franciscan monastery on Knuedler. Only here, it happened about a century earlier during the French siège under Louis XIV. Once the French soldiers had dispossessed and chased the Sisters away, the famous military engineer Vauban began building a huge citadel on this fortress. 560 soldiers then inhabited the former monastery, while the church was used as a warehouse. What was left of the building was finally demolished in 1790.

 

More than 210 years later, the Cité judiciaire (Luxembourg City’s Supreme Court) was built on the exact same site where the Holy Ghost Monastery once stood. I already left Luxembourg when they started the construction in 2003. When we came back 10 years later, I was shocked to see a huge modern building standing on the Holy Ghost Plateau. Luckily, they didn’t ruin the panoramic view of the Grund… my favorite view of Luxembourg City.

 

 

The Héichhaus – aka that skyscaper next to the famous MUDAM and Philharmonie

 

Recently, I’ve had several meetings at the Department of the Environment. They were all held on the 22nd floor of the Alcide de Gasperi Tower in Kirchberg, Luxembourg’s international banking district and home to various European Union institutions.

 

Built from 1960 to 1965, this 77-meter high “tower” used to be the tallest skyscraper in Luxembourg – not just in the capital, but in the whole country. It is hence commonly called the Héichhaus, literally the “high building”. I recently learned that this building, which used to house the European Parliament until 2001, was actually named after Alcide de Gasperi, because he was the first president of the European Parliament.

 

 

Now whenever I’m up there on the 22nd floor, I have difficulties to concentrate during the first 5 minutes of my meetings. Every time, the breathtaking panoramic views take me back to a long, long time ago…

 

In fact, this building used to offer a public lunchroom on the 22nd floor. In the 1980s, the cafeteria sometimes ordered fresh Vietnamese nems from my mother. I tagged along a couple of times when my sister delivered the food. I was a very shy kid, so I always stayed quiet. But standing on the highest floor of the tallest building of Luxembourg, I felt like reaching heaven. Facing the scenic views, I couldn’t refrain from spreading my arms, and pretending to fly over Luxembourg City. Never did I imagine that I’d be standing on the same spot as an adult…

 

Today, the upper floors of the Héichhaus hold several departments of the Ministry of Sustainable Development and Infrastructure, whereas the lower floors house the Council of the European Union.

 

It’s actually a pity that they didn’t keep the cafeteria on the upper floors of the Héichhaus, when the State of Luxembourg reopened the building after the 10 years long renovation works. But luckily, there are other spots in the neighborhood that offer unexpected views of Luxembourg City.

 

One of these would be the Three Acorns Park (Parc des Trois Glands), just across the Museum and Fortress Dräi Eechelen, located right behind the “new” concert hall Philharmonie and the famous Museum of Modern Art (MUDAM). That very museum designed by the Sino-American architect Ieoh Ming Pei, who also built the glass Pyramids of the Louvre, and where I completed an internship more than 10 years ago. But that’s yet another story to be told…

 

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My Luxembourg City - Part 1 © Travelwithmk.com

Follow Mei:

Traveler - Storyteller

30-something Archaeologist, born and raised in Luxembourg. Besides traveling, Mei loves eating stinky cheese and raw food, as well as listening to Kerstin’s stories while driving on long road trips. She speaks 7 languages, and wishes she had time to pick up Ancient Greek. She’s afraid of heights, but adores panoramic views. Her favorite places are those she chose to live in: Paris, Greece, San Francisco.

33 Responses

  1. I can totally relate! I grew up in Miami, a place many people want to visit. But growing up I wanted to leave and travel the world. Then a few years ago I moved back after having been gone almost 12 years. I’m able to see it now in a whole different light and can appreciate many things I didn’t as a child.

  2. Drew Seaman
    | Reply

    Great read. It can be awkward and strange to return to your home town or city after years and years away. It is funny how a certain store (or cafeteria in your case!) can bring up memories that you probably had thought about in a long, long time.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Thanks Drew! And what’s even weirder is that I can’t quite remember how that cafeteria really looked like back then. And nobody has a picture of it neither. But still, it could trigger so much memories!

  3. Vanessa
    | Reply

    My mom brought homemade buns to local stores too – in Nova Scotia, that is! This was such a great piece and reminded me of a trip my husband did to nearby Belgium to retrace his senior year of high school which was spent in Liege. It was a bittersweet trek in so many ways – his favourite pub was still there but he found that so much had changed as well. It’s incredible how many things can develop over a few decades.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Thank you Vanessa! Yes, Liège has also changed immensely over the last 20-30 years. We drive by sometimes when going to Belgium. Where’s his favorite pub? I want to go there too! Haha…

  4. Annika
    | Reply

    I love the personal stories you attached with the beautiful sights in Luxembourg City. It is amazing how you appreciate a place when you return after s long absence. I am glad you shared your experience with us and it inspires me to look at my hometown from a different viewpoint.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Thank you for your comment Annika! It’s actually a nice experience to explore a hometown after spending a certain amount of time abroad!

  5. loisaltermark
    | Reply

    It’s so interesting how most of us don’t appreciate the city we call home until we leave and come back! I’d love to visit Luxembourg. It looks so pretty and the history is so interesting.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      I guess that it’s normal that most of us who are done with highschool, wish to go out and explore the world, especially if we live in such a small country as Luxembourg. And it feels good to be able to rediscover a hometown with new eyes. 🙂

  6. Carol
    | Reply

    I can completely relate. I was born and raised in the Philippines, but left for good in 2009. I went back for a three-week vacation in 2015, and it had some aching bittersweet pang as well. It’s familiar and strange at the same time.

    Luxembourg seems like a charming place to grow up in —- or perhaps, a place to stay in temporarily. I can totally see myself living in this small, capital city. But, knowing how antsy I get, I will probably want to live somewhere else after a few years.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Haha…having lived in cities like Paris, Athens and San Francisco, we really hesitated to return to Luxembourg, since we were worried that we would get bored after a while. But we’re back for 4 years now, and it’s still OK. I guess it’s because it’s so easy to cross the borders to explore the neighboring countries! 🙂

  7. Aleah | Solitary Wanderer
    | Reply

    How cool to have Luxembourg as your home. I’ve always loved its old buildings, and it’s a bit worrisome to know they are being taken down. Hope I can visit before it’s all gone.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Hi Aleah, you should definitely visit Luxembourg soon! I’m sure you’ll like it here. 🙂

  8. SherianneKay
    | Reply

    I spent one very cold and extremely wet day in Luxembourg City. I really loved all the turret windows, think that’s the correct name for them

  9. carrieemann
    | Reply

    So interesting to read your perspective having lived there as a kid and now. I can totally relate to your comment about the city feeling like a giant construction zone. I live in Washington, DC, which is gentrifying at lightning speed and it feels similar — the roads are still a mess but a new condo building goes up every two weeks. It’s crazy how fast a place can change, and all you can hope for is that they keep some of their historic character.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Oh I can imagine how fast new buildings go up in Washington DC! We stayed a couple of days there last summer, and were surprised to see so many construction sites at every corner of the city, although one would think that nothing new would come disturb the national monuments and historic buildings in the capital of USA!

  10. Sad to read older buildings are being levelled torn down to make way for newer buildings – older buildings are so lovely to look at. Luxembourg looks so gorgeous, and those views…wow! Great post, I hope to visit Luxembourg some day!

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Fortunately the newer buildings don’t look too bad after all, especially compared to some (older) buildings from the 1970s that they’ve recently torn down. You should definitely come visit Luxembourg some day! It’s a small but charming country. 🙂

  11. Arnav Mathur
    | Reply

    Change is the rule of nature. Though you may find the city changed, considering that you have visited before. However, for a newbie, the buildings and the architecture still gives a unique charm of Luxembourg. Am waiting to experience it for myself.

  12. Meg Jerrard
    | Reply

    I’m actually in a very similar boat to you – we’ve just recently purchased a home in Tasmania – I grew up there and have a lot of childhood memories – we moved to the mainland when I was 12 and then as soon as I was old enough to travel I took off, having been exploring the world for the past 10 years now. Now though I’ve realized the unique appeal and heading “home” is an exciting prospect. It’s going to be interesting visiting places I have childhood memories from, and as you have experienced in Luxembourg, seeing how the cities have changed over the past decade. There’s a very interesting sense of nostalgia for sure!

    On a side note, I do hope to visit Luxembourg on my next trip through Europe, so appreciate the tips on what to see and where to go 🙂

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Returning “home” after spending over 10 years abroad is both scary and exciting. We’ve been “back” for 4 years now, but are still re-discovering the new places and those from our past that somehow seem so familiar and yet different… You’ll see that it will not get boring to be “back home”! 🙂 And by the way: congrats on your new home!
      Let me know when you plan to visit Luxembourg. I’ll be happy to send you more tips!

  13. Ryazan
    | Reply

    Homecoming for you, Mei! 🙂 As the city grows the development is inevitable but I’m glad that at least some remnants of the historical architecture was kept. I think this is a very sweet post.

  14. diningtraveler
    | Reply

    I was in Luxembourg 2 years ago and I really enjoyed the small, charming city. Enjoyed reading your story and seeing it from another perspective. I have to empathize… it sucks when you go back to your childhood city and you see something that you regarded missing…

  15. WorldGlimpses
    | Reply

    Who else can say if the city has changed if not the one who spend his childhood there! Lovely post, it was interesting to read about Luxembourg then and now. It’s still on my bucket list,so thanks. 🙂

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Thank you! I’m glad you liked this post. And let me know when you plan to visit Luxembourg, so I can send you some tips and infos! 😉

  16. travelwith2ofus
    | Reply

    Luxembourg is one of the countries I plan to visit. On my last trip to Europe I passed through so I just got a glimpse. I loved what I saw and made a note that I should visit. I love the places you have highlighted and the information you have given. At least when I do visit I can say I got the info from a local.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Thanks Simon! Feel free to contact us when you visit Luxembourg, so we can give you tips and infos! 😉

  17. Karla
    | Reply

    It seems like a place with both medieval and modern! Interesting to see it mix 🙂

  18. Rhonda Albom
    | Reply

    We visited Luxembourg back in 2012, and the size of the country surprised us. Coming from an island in the middle of the ocean where the nearest country is a 4-hour flight away, we found it strange to be able to drive through an entire country in an afternoon.

    • Mei and Kerstin
      | Reply

      Haha! Actually you can not only drive through the entire country in an afternoon, but even past three borders to Germany, France and Belgium within a day. And many Luxembourgers do that quite often! 🙂

  19. gokulr27
    | Reply

    They city has grown. The architecture is a blend of medieval and modern styles. I am hoping the medieval ones won’t fade away with time.

  20. Indrani
    | Reply

    When you say that old buildings are being levelled and new ones popping, it worries me- I don’t know why!
    I had seen the old part of Luxembourg City and it is so charming. I cherish the memories of my walk there some years back.

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